During the high season Hvar is the island of super-yachts, movie stars and the glitterati, but in September it reverts back to a blissfully quiet island idyll. Perfect for us. We made port in Stari Grad, the old town, although Hvar Town is the main town on the island.
Stari Grad was a really pretty little town, located down a little inlet from the coast. It was easy to walk all around the town and we had it pretty much to ourselves. I loved the old buildings painted in shades of red, orange, pink and yellow along the harbour and the town was filled with narrow, winding stone streets. A short 10 minute walk brought us to crystal clear coves with pebbly beaches surrounded by pine trees. It was incredibly tranquil.
Our skipper made dinner reservations for our group at Antika House of Food, a charming restaurant in an ancient stone courtyard. Large wooden tables with white umbrellas and soft lighting spilled out into the street. The atmosphere was fantastic.
Trev and I shared a caesar salad to start. I loved the house-made dressing, lightly drizzled over the top of the salad. For my main course there were a lot of choices on the menu that sounded delicious, but the tuna steak with tomato-olive sauce caught my eye. It was so good - the tuna was fresh and cooked nicely. I liked the acidity of the tomato sauce with the saltiness of the olives. It was served alongside Dalmatian-style vegetables: roasted potatoes, onion & cabbage with lemon and fresh herbs. It was way more food than I needed, but I finished every little bit on my plate.
Oh, I forgot to mention the puppies, er, dogs...fat dogs. There were about 4 dogs running around the courtyard begging from people at the restaurant. They each had their own schtick, like one guy that laid his head in your lap and gave you the 'dog eyes', and they each had their own tables that they jealously guarded. It was so funny and added to the whole atmosphere.
I can't say enough good things about Antika - the food, service and atmosphere were unbeatable. It's even safe to say it was my favourite meal in Croatia. Now to find a way to get back there...